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When assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has left the family completely surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” states the family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small restaurant earning such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.